Thursday, March 8, 2012

History of Mountain and Rock Climbing in Indonesia continue 1

Only those people who have the guts and very high confidence may engage in rock climbing
China annexed Tibet. Himalayan ascent from this side is not allowed anymore. Maurice Herzog led the French expedition to climb Annapurna (8091m), the peak's 8000-the first, marking the beginning of 20 years the Golden Age of climbing in the Himalayas. In the Alps, nylon rope began to be used. Previously, plant fiber rope have almost no flexibility, so that there is 'law' that a leader must not fall, because it almost certainly struck a broken hip. Goose clothes began to make the nights more comfortable at the bivouac.

Don Whillan find a mate, Joe Brown, the duo's strongest climbers who had owned the UK. Free climbing (free climbing) the benchmark British style of rock climbing world. Walter Bonatti et al. completed the Grand Capucin east wall, aid climbing early in the cliff wall into big category.
Began in England, there was Rock Revolution. Limestone cliff that was not as fragile as long as it is supposed. Cliffs of granite and other igneous rocks have a rival.

Herman Buhl solo on the east wall of Piz Badile in Switzerland, in 4 1/2 hours. This is the ancestor of speed climbing. Record time on the route, which was made in 1937, 52 hours!

Herman Buhl et al. reach the peak of Nanga Parbat (8125 m), an 8000-second peak of the climb. Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay who are members of a British expedition, became the first humans to stand atop the roof of the world, Everest.

Successful British expedition on Kangchenjunga, Makalu expedition successful in France (8463 m). In the Alps, and Joe Don Brown noted Whillan western wall of Aiguille du Dru in 2 days, another record.

Walter Bonatti pillar southwest solo du Dru 6 days.

Japan's successful expedition to climb Manaslu (8163 m). Japan soon became one of the major countries in the world of climbing in the Himalayas.

Herman Buhl and Austria team reach the summit Broad Peak (8047 m), as well as fix the first ascent of the mountain by an alpine 8000-tactic.

Pioneering airfield opened in several locations in New Guinea, the spirit of the mountaineers to try Carstensz, the virgin snow on the equator.

Claudio Barbier of Belgium third solo the north wall in the Tre Cima Laverdo in 1 day. First time using the speed climbing techniques combined free and aid climbing.
Helm began to frequently used by rock climbers.
Harness became mandatory following the death of a British climber at Dolomite. Harness the first mass produced and sold to the public made of webbing, Tankey brand.
48 Citatah cliff began to be used as a practice match for our Army.

Expedition from New Zealand trying to climb the Carstensz Pyramide but fails because of delay logistic support through the air bridge.

Cerstensz peak Pyramide team finally managed to grasp oteh Heinrich Heiner. Peak Eidenburg also nearby, the expedition led by Phillip Temple.
Early use of climbing bolts in the Alps; Cliff beach began to demand. U.S. climbers began to speak in the Alps, begins Hemmings and Robbins who created the super difficult track in the west wall du Dru.

Joint British-US team to climb the south wall of Aiguille du Fou, hardest technical climbing in the Alps when Ilu, with aid climbing techniques of U.S. forces. Code of Conduct in many contentious rock climbing began in the drinking houses. The first solo climb the Eiger Nordwand, by Michel Darbellay, in one day.
Bonatti and eat a mix Zapelli climbing (ice and rock) most difficult in the Alps, the north wall of Grand Pilier d'Angle on Mont Blanc. A glacier expert who had just returned from Antarctica trying to land his plane in the Puncak Jaya, near Carstensz. Fortunately the attack winds, heavy snow because there are too soft as a runway. But the tail, two DC 3 aircraft crashed in northern and southern slopes, at an altitude of about 4300 meters.

The expedition to climb Shisha Pangma Chinese team (8046 m) in Tibet, the only top 8000's are located outside of Nepal and Pakistan (Karakoram). Some Japanese climbers and three military men, Fred Athaboe, Sudarto and Sugirin, who joined in the expedition of Paradise, managed to reach Carstensz Peak (4884 m) in Irian. Two associations of birth of the oldest mountain climbers, Mapala Ul in Jakarta and Bandung Wanadri. This year is considered the beginning of the history of mountaineering in Indonesia.

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